I’ve long been a believer that there’s a Greek Island for everyone. Whether you go on holiday to explore new areas and their history, relax, sunbathe, ski (mainland only but you get my point), party, sail… The list goes on. Personally, my favourite island is Corfu. I love its leisurely atmosphere and beautiful scenery, but we’re also going to look at that perennial favourite, Rhodes, and how to escape the crowds.
Photo by: Andrei Nekrassov/Adobe Stock
These are 2 very different islands. They both offer the perfect holiday depending on what you want. The stunning island of Corfu in the Ionian Sea is home to forested mountain peaks and turquoise sea lapping at the shores of golden sand bays.
There are also striking reminders of its Venetian and French occupations in and around Corfu Town and a cricket pitch from when Britain ruled. One of the first islands to attract mass tourism, some resorts are fairly hideous but you don’t have to travel far to find a spectacular vista.
Rhodes on the other hand is the largest island in the Dodecanese, it boasts numerous sandy beaches and its capital is home to a gorgeous and remarkably well preserved medieval city. Busier than Corfu, Rhodes receives around 1 million tourists in a good season which can be quite overwhelming if you prefer the quiet life.
The secret is to think about when you travel. Visit either side of summer and you’ll find yourself on a much quieter island than at peak season and able to escape the crowds more easily.
Weather
In Corfu during May, temperatures are starting to heat up with an average of 18°C (that’s 64°F in old money). The sea temperature is usually around the 21°C mark so don’t be afraid to get in the water. Rhodes on the other hand is slightly cooler at 20°C and an average sea temperature of 19°C.
In September, the Islands start to cool down again, though they’ll still be very dry. In Rhodes, the average September temperature is about 25°C (76°F) whilst Corfu is around 24°C. The sea will be warming up to around the 22-24°C mark making it perfect for all but the most cowardly swimmers!
Corfu
Corfu perhaps became embedded in the British consciousness thanks to the writing of Gerald and Lawrence Durrell. Their books portray Corfu as a land of endless summer and perfection, great food and wine is always on offer, and parties are every few days. These days, the island is busier and more developed but get away from the tourist traps and you find yourself in another world. The rural and sleepy interior is of another era and must be explored.
Itinerary
Drive Time: 2hrs 41mins
Trip Type: Full Day
Beginning in Corfu Town, head over to the Néo Froúrio at the Old Harbour. This Venetian built fortress is architecturally fascinating, and offers wonderful views over the Old Town and out to sea. Cellars, dungeons and battlements are all open to the public. Open daily 8am–7.30pm (closes 3pm in winter), €3.
From the Old Harbour, head north out of Corfu Town towards Kontokali. After Gouvia, turn right towards Limni and follow this road around the east coast of Corfu.
Keep heading up to Kassiopi on the north coast via the Epar. Od. Kassiopis-Sidariou before turning on to the Epar. Od. Sgouradan-Profiti Ilia towards Pelekito.
This road will take you up to the deserted village of Paleá Períthia. This Venetian village is nestled in on the slopes of Mt. Pandokrátor. Abandoned in the 1960’s, the 14th-century church of Agios Iákovos O Pérsis at the village approach is the most important building here. Stunning frescoes have been uncovered and preserved and people are starting to move back to the area. There are a number of excellent walks and tavernas around here so do explore as much as you can.
When you’re ready to move on, head back down the Epar. Od. Sgouradan-Profiti Ilia and turn left onto the Epar. Od. Kassiopis-Sidariou towards Roda. Here, fork left onto the Troumpetas-Karousadon road to Agia Paraskevi.
Follow this road through the interior of Corfu down to the Kerkiras-Palaiokastritsas road and head over to Paleokastrítsa. Here you have a choice depending on the weather. You can either explore the Theotókou Monastery that overlooks the town, or head to one of the many fabulous beaches to cool off in the sea. The Monastery was originally built during the 13th century, but the current building dates from around the 18th century as it was rebuilt after a fire. Open daily 9am–1pm & 3–8pm. Free, but donations are welcome.
From Paleokastrítsa, head back up the Kerkiras-Palaiokastritsas road and follow the signs back to Corfu Town and the Old Harbour before heading to a taverna for some Greek wine and souvlakia.
Rhodes
A must see is the walled Old Town of Rhodes, one of the largest medieval towns in Europe. Awarded UNESCO World Heritage status for its sandstone architecture, flying buttresses, and the domes and minarets of a number of mosques, the town is an ever popular destination amongst tourists. The Palace of the Grand Master is probably the highlight. The Palace, originally a Byzantine fortress was converted in the early 14th century by the Knights of the Order of Saint John into the residence of the Grand Master of the order.
Itinerary
Drive Time: 2hrs 55mins
Trip Type: Full Day
Starting in Rhodes, head out of town via the Leof. Iraklidon through Ialysos and past the airport. Continue on to the ancient city of Kameiros. Together with Ialyssos and Lindos, Kameiros was one of the 3 Dorian powers that united to create the city-state of Rhodes. Kameiros was ultimately abandoned and only rediscovered in 1859. The acropolis commands fabulous views towards the coast of Turkey, and below it lies the well preserved remains of the town. Open Tues-Sun 8am-6:40pm (8:30am-3pm in winter) €4.
From Kameiros, head out on the Epar. Od. Kalavardas-Empona towards Kritinia and its Castle. This Venetian castle was built in the 16th century and is considered the jewel of the village with its breath-taking view over the Aegean Sea and the island of Chalki. Its location offers a 360 degree view of the sea which made it perfect for defending attacks from pirates. The site was chosen by the Knights of the Order of St John and was divided into three levels, each of them belonging to a different Grand Master.
When ready, head back to the town of Kritinia and join the Kalavardas-Empona road towards Lakki. Turn onto the Epar. Od. Ialisou-Katavias and follow it to Agia Isidoros, then on to Laerma and Lardos where you’ll turn left onto the Pilonas-Katavias road towards Theotokos.
Turn right and head into Lindos and its ancient city. On the hill above the modern town lies the acropolis of Lindos, a natural citadel which was fortified successively by the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Knights of St John, and the Ottomans. The acropolis offers outstanding vistas of the surrounding bays and coast.
The Temple of Athena, dates from around 300 BC, here you can see the base of the statue of Athena inside. The impressive Hellenistic stoa with its lateral projecting wings dates from about 200 BC and is found inside the Knights’ castle. Open Tues-Sun 8am-6:40pm (plus Mon 12:30-6:40pm in summer) €6.
At the end of the day, head out on the main road to Kalathos and follow it along the coast back to Rhodes town and relax with a glass of Ouzo and some olives.
Escape the crowds in the Greek Islands
If you can recommend any must see sites, get in touch below. We’d love to hear your suggestions and you could make someone else’s trip even better. Alternatively, why not check out the latest prices for car hire in the Greek Islands?
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