Looking for a road trip in Cyprus? Look no further! The Troodos mountain range stretches across most of western Cyprus. The area has had cultural significance since ancient times. It is however widely recognised for its links back to the Byzantine era. During the conflict of this era churches and monasteries were built high in the mountains away from the threatened coastline. Lavishly decorated with murals and portraits, these painted churches pay homage to the devout religious beliefs of the Byzantine Empire.
One of the best sights in Cyprus, these lovingly preserved churches now form the popular ‘Painted Churches Trail’! The trail usually takes around 2 days to complete on foot. Nevertheless, it does also make a lovely scenic drive! Read on to get the low down on this great road trip in Cyprus.
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The trail includes 10 churches in total. All of them are included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Varying in size, the churches don’t look particularly impressive from the outside. In fact, they more closely resemble rural barns. However, once inside visitors are welcomed by the glorious sight of colourful frescoes and mosaics.
The churches are all free to enter. Unfortunately you are not allowed to take pictures of the paintings. If you would like a souvenir of your visit the local village or church shop will sell postcards of the murals. The proceeds of which are donated to the continued preservation of the churches.
Nikitari
Your first stop is the rustic village of Nikitari. Set in idyllic pastoral surroundings, Nikitari is a classic example of a rural Cypriot village. Stroll through the village and admire the old folk style architecture. If you’re feeling peckish, stop for a bite to eat at the Forviotissa Tavern.
The church in Nikitari is a small 12th century shrine to the Virgin Mary, known as Panagia Forviotissa (The Virgin). While it appears unassuming from the outside do not underestimate its interior. The strikingly beautiful frescoes that decorate the walls are considered to be some of the greatest examples of mural painting in Cyprus!
Kalopanayiotis (35 Mins)
From Nikitari make the short journey to the Monastery of Agios Ioannis Lampadistis (St John) in Kalopanayiotis. The drive will take you through the central part of the Troodos Mountain region. Enjoy the stunning views offered by the scenic, winding roads as you cross the mountainside. Remember to take the drive slowly and make the most of the beautiful scenery!
The Monastery itself is a collection of buildings that date from the 11th to the 18th century. Look out for the depiction of the Holy Handkerchief in the original Monastery church. The quality and rarity of the illustration makes it one of the most revered wall-paintings from the Byzantine period.
Moutoullas and Pedoulas (10 Mins)
In the terraced villages of Moutoullas and Pedoulas you will find the 13th century churches of Panagia (The Holy Cross) and Archangelos Michaelis (Saint Michael). Although the frescoes in these churches have suffered some fading, the vividness of the colours continue to impress visitors. Take note of the dedication to detail which brings the illustrations to life and reflects the complete religious devotion of their creators.
Galata and Kakopetria (20 Mins)
Built in the 16th century the church of Pangia tis Podithou (Our Lady) in Galata is the youngest of the group. Whereas the church of Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis (St Nicholas) in Kakopetria dates back to the 11th century. Compare the murals of as you explore these museums of Byzantine art. Why not see if you can map the evolution of styles and influences that are evident in the paintings.
Pelentri, Lagoudera and Platanistasa (15 Mins)
The next three villages are located in the remotest part of the Troodos mountain range, the region of Pitsilia. Although the villages may be remote, they certainly don’t lack in character. More importantly they are all home to iconic painted churches of course!
Unravelling the stories of the frescoes, murals and portraits of these churches also gives you the opportunity to dig deeper into the local history. For example, the church of Panagia tou Arakou at Lagoudera has particular social significance. Interestingly, it is renowned for being a place of miracles! Ask the priest or see if your find a local to tell you the story of the Judge and the silver hailstone.
Palaichori (25 Mins)
Your final stop is in the village of Palaichori and the cherry on the cake of the Painted Churches Trail. Here you will find the church of Agia Sotira tou Soteros (The Transfiguration) which contains the most complete collection of wall-paintings. Art historians and Byzantine specialists have extensively admired the masterful detail of these murals and praised the preservation efforts which have kept them in such good condition.
The monastery and 9 other churches are an exceptional testimony to a revered cultural tradition and the country’s most precious national treasure.
